Small Kiln - Tack Fuse

IN KILN: Yin/Yang dragonfly. The yin/yang was previously fired at a full fuse. Two clear/irid pieces with PearlEx design stamped onto clear and placed down toward irid. Hair spray was used as the sticking medium. PearlEx was brushed on the stamp and the excess was tapped off to avoid excess PearlEx falling off. 2 frit/powder pieces.

Here are the pieces before the firing.

And after being fired. Two observations- the change in color of the dragonfly body started with Uroboros Marigold. Normally this color stays true after firing, but it shifted to a brown color when CMC was added to make glass clay. I'm happier with this shift in color since it softens the look. Also the head moved. Also the frit/powder pieces should be at a full fuse. Here's the firing schedule for a tack fuse: Starting Temp: 64 deg. Vented the kiln by keeping the peep hole open until 800 deg. reaches. (should have tried to keep it vented until it reached 1,000 deg, but I was pressed for time) Low for2 hours. Temp reached 800 at 2 hours (= Ramp @ 400 DPH) @ 2 hours - increased to Lev. 2. @+30 min. -temp. = 1090 deg. Increased to Lev. 3. (= Ramp @ 200 DPH) @+30 min. temp. = 1200 deg. Increased to Lev. 4 (=Ramp @ 200 DPH) @+30 min. temp = 1350 deg. Hold @ 1350 for 15 minutes. Turned off and let cool.

Liquid Stringer test

I mixed up 2 colors of liquid stringer: BE Red and BE Jade Green. I tried to write with these 2 samples, but the edges softened and spread. I don't know the why it is doing this. Maybe the CMC wasn't thick enough. Or maybe because I added some water when mixing in order to be a smoother consistancy. I didn't add much water, though. If I didn't add the water, the consistancy was like an overly-dry cake mix.

My technique for the leaves is this:
I used the Liquid Stringer I bought as the outline for the leaves. I drew this over a heating pad so it would dry out quicker. One dry (or started to dry out), I filled in the space with the jade green LS I made. I filled it farely heavy-handed, but didn't take it all the way to the edge. I let it bleed over to the outline before adding more.

As for the ladybugs, I drew 3 but only added the head with the black LS to one. I'm planning on firing once to see how it turns out. After it's fired, I'll add the head and dots to the ladybugs.





Here I cut out a gecko with a saw and used the LS I made to add some detail. I didn't let this dry before placing in the kiln. My intention is to fire at a slower pace in the beginning.

Glass Clay

MAKING GLASS CLAY
I took a small amount of the prepared CMC and added powdered frit (BE Red). I don't have the exact proportions but I started with about 50/50 CMC to powder. It wasn't the right clay-like consistancy that I was hoping for so I added about 1/2 tsp more powder. It still wasn't right so I added more powder. It was more clay-like at this point. I "molded" one piece with just this combination and I added a few drops of aloe vera gel to another test.

I like the consistancy with the aloe vera gel so I have to remember this.

When working with this, it reminded me of a very sticky dough.

I made 2 lady bugs and used a wet paintbrush to smooth any lines. Now I need to wait for this to dry.
NOTE: When I went back to check on these, the one with the aloe vera added had flattened out. At first I didn't know if that's because of the aloe vera addition or too much water on the brush. So I slightly rewet the original piece and reformed it. When the surface was dry, I applied the black line for the wings and the spots using the Liquid Stringer(tm) Black that I already had. I think there must have been too much water in the brush, and not caused by the aloe vera, because when I reformed the ladybug, it was fine after it dried.



24 hours later I fired the ladybugs.
Kiln Notes:
Items in the kiln: 1 flat piece with Liquid Stringer writing, 1 pc (butterfly) with PearlEx and the 2 ladybug glass clay pieces

Starting kiln temp: 64 degrees
Turn on Lo.
At 15 min., temp at 500 deg. Increase to Level 1.5
At 60 min., temp at 700 deg. Increase to Level 2.0
At 90 min., temp at 900 deg. Hold 15 minutes
1325 AFAP (reaches this temp in 5 minutes) Hold 30 minutes.
Turn kiln off and let come to room temp.
Total cook time 2:15
Final results. This may have to be taken up to fire polish next time. I don't know how much height and detail would be lost at that temp. Will have to play around with it. It did shrink as expected - about 25% - but I'm happy with the results overall.

Next test will have to either be up to fire polish or use the CMC to make liquid stringer. I need to get a squeeze bottle in order to really test that.

Making my own liquid stringer and glass clay - RECIPE for Powder Line Medium

INGREDIENTS:

•1/4 cup CMC
•2 cups water (distilled preferred but not required. NOTE I used reg tap water)
DIRECTIONS:

•Boil water.

•Add CMC, stirring in slowly to minimize clumping.NOTE: I basically dumped the powder in and it formed white, clumps with the powder inside the clumps (see photo). I smashed the clumps on the side of the pot to get rid of them.


•Stir until mixed. There will be lots of lumps at this point - that's okay.


•Allow the mixture to sit and cool for 24 hours.
IMPORTANT:

•CMC is used as a food additive and is non-toxic. This recipe can be safely prepared in your kitchen.
NOTE: The package I picked up at my local ceramic supply place (Laguna Clay) has a warning that there are known carcenogens in the package and should not be used near food preparation. I'm hoping this is just a generic warning, but I did take precautions.
1. I'm using an old pot that will be dedicated to only making this.
2. I'm using a spoon to stir that will only be used for this.
3 I used a dust mask.
4. I prepared this all outdoors since it was a nice day. I can also do this in the glass studio if the weather doesn't permit.

•CMC consistency varies among manufacturers. You may need to experiment if you are not getting the consistency that you want.

•This mixture can be thinned by adding water. It cannot be thickened by adding CMC. This is why many people choose to intentionally mix the PLM extra thick and thin as needed

18 Hours Later

All the undisolved lumps are gone and it has gelled. The consistancy is like gelatin. My best description is like chicken stock that you make at home and cook down for hours. Then you put it into the fridge and the next day it is alot like jello. Well that's my best description for this, except a bit thicker.

Now this is ready to use to make glass clay or liquid stringers.