Monday, November 30, 2009

BFs XMAS

12/25/09 - Now that the BF has this, I can post.

I started with a B/W picture of Mt Hood. By having a B/W, I was able to figured out some of the contours. Using a second layer for a distinction of the foreground, I used BE powder in white and Oregon Grey (appropriate) for the snow and shading. I also used BE white fine frit for additional texture.



Firing-Goal to tack/contour fuse

Turn on Lo

41 min - temp = 546 deg. Increase to Level 1

1:04 temp = 624 deg. Increase to Level 2

1:20 temp = 768 deg. Increase to Level 2.5

2:00 temp = 983 deg. Increase to Level 3.0

2:05 temp = 1000 deg. Hold 15 minutes. Then increase to Level 3.5

3:22 temp = 1350 deg. Hold 10 minutes then turn off and let cool in kiln overnight.

(the pic is upside down)

My origian thought was to just put the above piece on clear and then glue onto the box I stained. When I put it up against the box, it just didn't have enought "pop" to it. So I figured I'd fuse to to clear irid. But when all placed together, it still wasn't too exciting. So I got the idea of having a background - sunset or sunrise for color. I didn't know how I was going to figure out where the right colors should be against the peaks since I'm used to putting on the powders, firing it, and then seeing where the colors hit and if they are in the right spots. I thought I'd try to put the powder down on a plate mold I have so I can see exactly where the colors are and how they will come through against the mountains. So I put the powder down, layed the clear irid on top, and then fired


Firing- Starting temp 78 deg. - Turn on Lo

At 25 min, temp = 500 deg, increased to Level 1

At 60 min, temp = 615 deg, increase to Level 2

At 1:20, temp = 790, increase to Level 3

At 2:00, temp = 1020 deg, increase to Level 4

At 2:15, temp = 1146 deg, increase to Level 5

at 2:52, temp = 1450. Hold 10 minutes then turned kiln off. Cooled in kiln overnight .



Firing - Goal to tack / contour fuse

I did a 3rd firing to attach the "mountains" to the "sky". I didn't want to lose the contours of the mountain peaks and I now have 3 layers of glass in areas. I only wanted to fire to 1350 degrees to keep the dimension.

Starting temp 71 deg. Turned on to Lo
At 30 min, temp = 465 deg, increase to Level 1.5

At 1 hour, temp = 665 deg, increase to Level 2.0

At 1:37, temp = 839 deg, increase to Level 2.5

At 2:14, temp = 1000 deg. Hold 15 minutes. Then increase to Level 3.0

At 2:38, temp = 1070 deg, increase to Level 4

At 2:50, increase to Level 6.0

At 3:02, temp = 1350 deg, Hold 15 minutes and then turn kiln off. Cool overnight in kiln.


When I attached the mountains to the background, the "peak" curled up. I did a second firing to lay it down. It didn't lay flat, but was better after the second firing, which I took longer. I also added some more powder and frit since it was loosing some texture.



Firing - Goal to bring to a almost full fuse temp long enough to soften the glass and lay the curled piece down, but not long enough or hot enough to loose the contours or the texture of the frit.

I reapplied the kiln wash so I turned the kiln on to dry the shelf. Starting temp when the piece was put in was 135 deg and kept in there for 15 minutes before turning the kiln on to Lo

At 1 hr, temp at 635 deg., increased .5 level

At 1 hr 30 min, temp = 730 deg., increased .5 level

At 2 hr, temp = 850 deg, inceased .5 level to 2.0

At 2 hr 50 min, temp = 1040 deg, increase to Level 2.5

At 4 hr 11 min, temp = 1220 deg, increase to Level 3.0

At 4:34, temp = 1300 deg, increase to Level 3.5

At 4:45, temp = 1350 deg. Hold 20 minutes, then turn kiln down to Lo

At 6:00, temp = 1110 deg, Turned kiln off and let cool overnight in kiln.



This is the final piece. I stained the box and attached the glass with Wellbond.

Playing with Enamels

Inspired by Van Gogh's Cafe Terrace
This was the first attempt using enamels. The brightly colored canopy is a second layer of BE glass, as well as the door frame in the lower left had corner. That was done with clear glass and powders. After the firing, some black enamel was used to define the different wood planes for the frame, but it isn't visible in this picture.

All the enamel was applied wet, using only water as the medium. 2 firings were required, both to tack fuse temps. Some enamel colors were blended like paint pigments to make a redish-orange, bluish-black and an orangy-yellow. The background blue was not blended, using blue and cobalt blue.

All the background was done in the first firing. The second firing was to add the tables and some additional details.


The purpose of this panel was to cover a big hole made when the on-demand water heater was installed. I put a 2' x 2' hole in the cabinet so the workers could easily install the required, expensive stainless steel venting. Since the water heater is in the kitchen, and the kitchen is in a faux-French look, I thought this would be appropriate. And I do have a watercolor of a Provence doorway, acquired when I was in Nice.
Looking at this in a photo (as well as in person) it could use more color to give it more interest, more depth, and more "punch", but impatience won over and I wanted this in the frame on covering that hole. It's only been...5 years? 6 years?
I may try and do a plate in all enamel to see how that looks.

Monthly Challenge entry - Ornamanet "Revels"


Nothing like waiting until the last minute to get a picture. This ornament was done a few weeks ago, but I didn't get a picture. I finally did it on the last day to enter.
This was the second attempt. When I fired the first one, one side pulled in so I had to recut and fire. This is all BE. The base is BE white. The notes are BE black and BE black stringers, as well as the stright lines.
WRITINGS:
The words are done with Liquid Stringer. I attempted several different things, but not really came out. I'm not really pleased with this, but it was the best of all the attempts.
Some of the attempts I tried, but didn't like the look was to use rubber letter stamps and stamp on the song with pixie dust. I couldn't get the text to "flow" and look right.
I also attempted the same thing with dry enamel and that didn't work.
I also tried to write with enamel that was made into liquid form using gum arabic and another attempt using water. Since the enamel doesn't really stick to the glass like it would to a porous material, it would pool up in areas. I'm assuming this might have been easier if it were a large piece, but this is only about 4" in diameter.
FIRING:
The first 2 were to tack fuse. First the stright lines, then a second firing to add the notes.
Turn on to Lo-starting temp 135 deg
At 1 hr. - increase dial to .5, temp at 635 deg
At 1 hr 30 min - increase dial another .5, temp at 730 deg
At 2 hr - increase .5 (Level 2) , temp at 850 deg
At 2 hr 50 min - increase .5 (Level 2.5), temp at 1040 deg
At 4 hr 11 min - increase .5 (Level 3.0), temp at 1220 deg
At 4 hr 34 min - increase to Level 3.5, temp at 1300 deg
At 4 hr 45 min - temp at 1350 deg. Hold at 1350 deg for 20 min.
At 5 hr 05 min - Turn down to Lo
At 6 hr - turn kiln off.
This same firing schedule was repeated for the second tack fuse firing.
The third firing was for the Liquid Stringer and went to a hire temp. The manuf. recommends 1500 deg, but I took this up to only 1450 deg, holding only 10 minutes. I didn't want to look the raised quality of the notes so I didn't take it up that high. I also didn't want the sides to pull inwards, causing me to start all over again.
Dance dance wherever you may be I am the lord of the dance said he...